The Press Club in Melbourne definitely ranks as one of my most enjoyable dining experiences to date. It rarely occurs that all elements of the dining experience delight the senses in such a pleasurable way. Well that may sound quite pompous to some but really all I could think about for days after was how I could get another booking to go back and to try even more of the modern Greek cuisine that George Calombaris and his team so lovingly prepared.
We opted for the Kerasma menu which is greek for small tastes but unlike other degustation meals the key to eating Kerasma is all about sharing. My dining partner and I were overwhelmed by the quantity of food but the quality of greek food on offer was what really astounded us. If your experience with greek food is a slimy overly dressed greek salad with greasy souvlaki then I recommend you rediscover the delicacy of what Greek food is all about.
First up is the complimentary three types of bread that arrive still warm from the oven. Forgive me for not remembering and sharing every taste we encountered that evening as it was simply overwhelming to experience that kind of variety in one seating. Anyway back to the bread, I recall one was a lovely light pistachio bread which was almost cake-like in consistency. The bread was accompanied by a subtle and smooth olive oil and served with a volcanic rock salt from Greece.
My recommendation is to not over indulge in the bread because when the Mezedes (tasting) platter arrives you’ll want to try absolutely everything that is put in front of you. As a vegetarian, I was particularly impressed by each waiter kindly pointing out the vegetarian options. I reckon there were at least ten tastes on offer including the most divine kalamata olives I have ever tasted. The other interesting tastes included the saganaki martini - please check out the link for recipe details http://gourmettraveller.com.au/saganaki_martini.htm, a feta and capsicum dip, soft-filled dolmades, a lovely pickled cabbage ever so subtly sweetened with just a touch of honey.
The Orektika or appetisers were particularly satisfying with a lovely cumin-roasted beetroot salad with pistachio biscuit and labna balls (oh yum-yum), a thin slice of garfish which was lightly seared and garnished with a greek herb and oil sauce which proved to be a good match for the Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc from the Martinborough region in New Zealand. A far cry from the average souvlaki, the lamb kofta was roasted and served on a thin wooden skewer over a tzatziki shot glass which one mixed with the lamb skewer to get the combined tastes of greek yoghurt, cucumber and garlic. The Salates & Lathera (salads & vegetables) consisted of the ubiquitous greek salad although not the soggy, slimy variety encountered in other greek restaurants. A tasty but simple roasted eggplant salad was more like a chunky dip than salad and was a great accompaniment to the rest of the flavours on offer. The lemon potatoes were crispy and tangy and were another great addition to the meal.
Course four was the Kyrio or main dish which consisted of a crispy thin filo filled with roasted pumpkin and almonds for the vegetarian option. A slow-roasted greek style lamb was offered as the main which went beautifully with the rest of the dishes.
While we opted for the 4-coure Kerasma, my biggest disappointment was not having the stomach capacity to enjoy the mouth-watering desserts I saw going to other tables. However, even without sampling the dessert offerings, the entire evening was such a wonderful experience. The open kitchen gives you a small glimpse of the genius and composure going on in the kitchen while the waiters execute the service with a loving attention to detail. If you get the chance to dine at The Press Club,and have the patience for the six-week waiting list to get a table I am sure you will be equally impressed that you have experienced the best of what Greek food can be.
